When I revealed a recent molding project, a few people said they'd love to see one with some gold. Well, it doesn't take much for me to add gold bling to a piece, so your wish is my command!
Although this looks a lot like my last piece, it's actually a completely different piece.
The old "batwing" hardware had to go. I filled the holes and drilled new holes for the new, gold knobs.
- White Lightening Cleaner
- Big Mama's Butta (to revive the wood inside the drawers)
- B.O.S.S. (in white)
- Dixie Belle Paint in Fluff & Drop Cloth
- Sea Spray
- Blue Sponge
- Zibra brush
- Clear Coat
- Moulds (I used several. Here are my top suggestions:)
Make Resin Mouldings Ahead of Time
This 3-minute video shows how I make the resin and paperclay moldings.
I use resin for larger or more intricate moulds. They are best on flat surfaces. You can make them ahead of time.
I use paperclay for smaller moulds that I can stack or wrap around legs or curves. Paperclay moldings must be used immediately, or place in a ziplock baggie in the freezer to use later. They thaw quickly.
- Clean with White Lightening Cleaner
- Sand if needed
I use Titebond Quick & Thick All-Purpose Glue. Just spread on the back of the molding, apply to the surface, and hold a couple of seconds. I usually start by placing several resin moldings, knowing there will be gaps where I'll fill in with paperclay ones.
Use paperclay moldings to stack on top of other moldings, in between drawers, and around corners and legs.
After you've applied all the moldings, allow to dry overnight. Sand any paperclay moldings you’ve placed between drawers.
PRIME AND PAINT
Apply 1-2 coats of (white) BOSS to prevent wood tannins from bleeding through the paint (only on certain woods like mahogany, cherry, or over pine knots, or over any raw or old wood.)
Apply 2 coats of paint. I mixed approx. 5 parts Fluff with 1 part Drop Cloth for my perfect white.
I also added Sea Spray directly to the paint mixture to give the piece some vintage texture and hide imperfections in the piece.This piece had surface issues that would have been difficult to correct, so by adding Sea Spray to the paint, I worked with it instead of against it while adding a cool texture to the finish.
The trick to applying Sea Spray is to "stipple", or "pounce" the paint on - don't "brush" it on. And Sea Spray looks way better after the second coat. :)
Once the paint was dry, I squeezed some Eternal Decor Wax onto a plate and grabbed a small wax brush.
Brush the wax on lightly over just the tops of the moldings. Use a light hand and just skim across the tops. You can always add more, but it's difficult to remove once you've applied it.
I also used the wax to "paint" the base of the piece. It covered beautifully!
This wax dries very fast and cures permanent. There's no need for additional sealer unless you want extra protection.
Using a brush, apply 2 or more coats of Clear Coat, allowing to dry a couple hours or more between coats.
Are you inspired to try the Decor Wax?